♥ Patterns · crochet · free patterns

For My Friends: Let’s Crochet

anatomy chain

You will need:
1 Crochet Hook (Size H 5.00mm)
1 Ball of Cotton Yarn

Both of these are about 1.50 each at craft stores. Use coupons, get a hook that is comfy. Metal wood squishy… at the end of the day it boils down to what is most comfortable and cost effective for you. Different crafters prefer different things, you will find your zone.

Crochet and knitting are two very different wonderful things. Most of us learn one or both as children at a loved one’s knee. Some of my adult friends are interested in learning and I thought I would start with some primers. As I told my friend Jennifer yesterday, it is impossible to really just grab a book and crochet. There are people that will tell you they have done it. They have also had to go back learn gauge, technique, charting, designing and more to perfect their craft.

Truthfully, if you want to pick up a hook and make a baby blanket or some super adorable cotton dishcloths there is no huge investment needed. The stitches in crochet are creating “posts”, little wrapped loops that build on each other to create rounds or layers. The work does move much more quickly and slipped stitches (knit) are rare in crochet.

All crochet for the most part starts with a CHAIN (CH) it can be a long line (120 st) or short  (4 ch) to create a loop and build in the round. Below is our pattern for a cute dishcloth. I am going to take a picture of each step and talk you through it. Yes there there will several blog posts, but I hope by doing this we can show you not only how to read a basic pattern, but start building your crochet vocabulary to go on to other projects.

Ch 41.
Base row: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, * ch1, skip next ch, dc in next 3 ch, rep from * to end, turn.
39 sts.
Row 1: Ch 2, * dc in next 3 sts, ch1, skip next ch-1sp, rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, * dc in first st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, 1 long dc (insert hook in ch1-sp 2 rows below), rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, dc in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch2, dc in first st, * ch1, skip next sp, dc in next 3 sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, ch1, skip next sp, dc in last st, turn.
Row 4: Ch2, * dc in first st, 1 long dc over next sp, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in next st, 1 long dc over next sp, dc in last st, turn. Rep rows 1 – 4 until work measures 11 ins, [28 cm] from beg.
Fasten off.
Work 1 rnd sc evenly around entire outer edge, working 3 sc in each corner, sl st in first st.
Next rnd: Ch 2, dc in each st, working 3 dc in each corner st, sl st in top of turning ch.

Fasten off.

CH 41

Click on any small image to make it larger.
Grab your yarn and wrap a loop around your finger. The piece connected to the ball should be on the left, the “end” or tail should be on the right.

Leave the tail in back of the loop.

Insert the hook through the loop, moving under the tail and back out the loop.

Grab tail and pull to create slip knot on hook.

The tail is kept to the right or held with your finger while you work the chain.

The yarn connected to your ball is called the Working Yarn.

Now we start our chain.

Loop the Working thread from the back over the top to the front of the hook.

Slowly pull hook catching this thread and pull it through the center of your slip knot (eye). The knot will move down and tighten.
This is not your first CH but instead the beginning of your row.

Loop over again, pull this loop through the previous one made. This is your first chain.

Do that 40 more times.

Here is the anatomy of your first chain. (CH)
It will not be pretty. It is going to look all lopsided and stupid.



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